Laura's Loop: Everyday Linen Raglan

Growing up as the sister of two older brothers, to say I was a tomboy is a bit of an understatement. I was one of the boys! While my girlfriends were playing softball, I insisted on being in the all-boys baseball league. My 'Sunday's Best' consisted of hand-me-down golf shirts, khaki pants and bucks. I blindly and adoringly echoed my brothers' every move. If they wouldn't wear it (or do it or like it), well then, neither would I.

So for those who knew me back then, my current love for linen dresses and fancy clutches, cashmere wraps and backless sweaters, floral hankies and pretty much all things fem is something of a shock. Yet while my style has drastically shifted, those tomboy roots do run deep. Put me in jeans and a t-shirt and I am one happy camper. Put me in jeans and a linen shirt, and I'm in heaven! 

This lightweight, 3/4-sleeve raglan top harkens back to sunny days at the ball park, but with the natural elegance and drape of 100% linen. It's the best of both worlds, classic and casual for everyday, but not without a pinch of feminine subtlety. 

Knit up in Euroflax's beautiful sportweight linen, this favorite yarn of mine pairs a rugged durability with a chic grace, a duality I have come to greatly appreciate!

The Materials

• 4 (5) skeins of Louet's Euroflax, 100% Linen. I used the color Pewter.
• A US #4, 24 inch circular needle 
• An extra circular needle US #4 or smaller, 24 to 40 inches
• Set of US #4 double pointed needles
• Four stitch markers
• One removable stitch marker 

The Pattern

Gauge

6 stitches = 1 inch in stockinette stitch, blocked 

Sizes

Small/Medium (Medium/Large)

Finished Dimensions After Blocking

Hip Circumference: 31 (34) inches

Chest Circumference: 36 (40) inches

Bottom Hem to Underarm: 12 1/2 (13 3/4) inches

Cuff to Underarm: 12 inches 

Sleeves

Note: If you are long-limbed, you may want to knit an extra round between each increase row. 

Using the double pointed needles, cast on 57 (60) stitches.

Place marker and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches. 

Purl 8 rounds.

Increase Round: K1, make 1 left (m1L), knit to last stitch, make 1 right (m1R), k1. 59 (62) stitches

**Knit 7 rounds.

Increase Round: K1, m1L, knit to last stitch, m1R, k1. 61 (64) stitches

Repeat from ** 10 more times. 81 (84)  stitches

Place stitches on stitch holders or scrap yarn and put aside.

Make a second sleeve identical to the first. 

Begin Body

With the 24 inch circular needle, use the provisional cast on method to cast on 188 (208) stitches.

Place marker and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.

Knit 16 rounds.

Hem the Bottom

Use the extra circular needle to pick up the cast on stitches. Once the cast on stitches are on the new needle, fold the fabric towards you so the knit sides are facing each other and the purl side of the hem is on the outside (the right side of the sweater should also be facing you). Holding the two left needles parallel to each other, knit 1 stitch from the front needle together with 1 stitch from the back needle. Repeat to end of round. 188 (208) stitches.

Shape the Back Tail

Note: The back of the sweater has a slight dip formed by using Short Rows (working back and forth, turning the work part way through each round instead of continuing to the end of the needle). This portion of the pattern is optional. If you would like your sweater to be even across the bottom, skip ahead to the Body section below. For a great Short Row Tutorial, click here!

Row 1 (right side): K94 (104), place marker, k71 (81), wrap and turn.

Row 2 (wrong side):  P48 (58), wrap and turn.

Row 3: K48 (58), knit the wrapped stitch together with the picked-up wrap, k1, wrap and turn.

Row 4: P50 (60), purl the wrapped stitch together with the picked-up wrap, p1, wrap and turn.

Row 5: K52 (62), knit the wrapped stitch together with the picked-up wrap, k1, wrap and turn.

Row 6: P54 (64), purl the wrapped stitch together with the picked-up wrap, p1, wrap and turn.

Continue in this fashion, working up to the wrapped stitch, working the wrapped stitch with the picked-up wrap, working one more stitch and then wrapping and turning. End with the wrong side row that starts with purling 90 (100).

Next Row (rs): K92 (102), knit the wrapped stitch together with the picked-up wrap.

Now continuing to work in the round again.

Next Round: Knit to 1 stitch past the next marker, pick up wrap on next stitch (this time knitting the wrap and stitch together through back loop), knit to end of round.

Body

Note: If you are long waisted, you may want to knit an extra round between each increase row.

**Knit 10 (11) rounds.

Increase Round: K1, m1L, knit to marker, m1R, slip marker, k1, m1L, knit to end of round, m1R. (4 stitches increased)

Repeat from ** 7 more times. 220 (240) stitches

Knit 10 (11) rounds (or number required to reach desired length from bottom hem to underarm).

Attaching the Sleeves

Knit to first marker, slip marker, knit across 81 (84) sleeve stitches, place marker, knit to end of round, place marker, knit across 81 (84) stitches of the second sleeve. 81 (84) stitches for each sleeve, 110 (120) stitches for front and back. 382 (408) total stitches        

Shape the Raglan

Decrease Round: *P1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. (8 stitches decreased)

Next Round: *P1, knit to 1 stitch before next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Repeat last two rounds 12 (13) more times. 55 (56) stitches for each sleeve, 84 (92) stitches for front and back. 278 (296) total stitches 

Shape the V

Notes:

Make one stitch purl-wise (m1 purl-wise): Pick up the strand between the last and next stitch from the back and purl through the front loop.

Slipped stitches are done purl-wise.

Decrease Round 1: P1, k2tog, k36 (39), ssk, p2, k2tog, k36 (39), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. 53 (54) stitches for each sleeve, 82 (90) stitches for back, 80 (88) stitches for front. 268 (286) total stitches

Next Round: P1, k37 (40), slip 1 (sl1), p2, sl1, k37 (40), *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 2: P1, k2tog, k34 (37), ssk, m1 purl-wise (see note above), p2, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k34 (37), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. 51 (52) stitches for each sleeve, 80 (88) stitches for back, 78 (86) stitches for front. 260 (278) total stitches

Next Round: P1, k35 (38), sl1, p4, sl1, k35 (38), *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 3: P1, k2tog, k32 (35), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p4, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k32 (35), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. 252 (270)  total stitches     

Next Round: P1, k33 (36), sl1, p6, sl1, k33 (36), *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 4: P1, k2tog, k30 (33), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p6, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k30 (33), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. 244 (262) stitches 

Next Round: P1, k31 (34), sl1, p8, sl1, k31 (34), *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. 

Decrease Round 5: P1, k2tog, k28 (31), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p8, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k28 (31), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. 236 (254) stitches

Next Round: P1, k29 (32), sl1, p10, sl1, k29 (32), *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 6: P1, k2tog, k26 (29), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p10, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k26 (29), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. 228, (246) stitches

Next Round: P1, k27 (30), sl1, p12, sl1, k27 (30), *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 7: P1, k2tog, k24 (27), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p12, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k24 (27), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. 220 (238) stitches

Next Round: P1, k25 (28), sl1, p14, sl1, k25 (28), *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 8: P1, k2tog, k22 (25), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p14, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k22 (25), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. 212 (230) stitches

Next Round: P1, k23 (26), sl1, p16, sl1, k23 (26), *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 9: P1, k2tog, k20 (23), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p16, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k20 (23), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. 204 (222) stitches

Next Round: P1, k21 (24), sl1, p18, sl1, k21 (24), *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 10: P1, k2tog, k18 (21), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p18, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k18 (21), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. 196 (214) stitches

Next Round: P1, k19 (22), sl1, p20, sl1, k19 (22), *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 11: P1, k2tog, k16 (19), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p20, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k16 (19), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. 188 (206) stitches

Next Round: P1, k17 (20), sl1, p22, sl1, k17 (20), *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 12: P1, k2tog, k14 (17), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p22, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k14 (17), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. 180 (198) stitches

Next Round: P1, k15 (18), sl1, p24, sl1, k15 (18), *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Decrease Round 13: P1, k2tog, k12 (15), ssk, m1 purl-wise, p24, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k12 (15), ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. 172 (190) stitches

Next Round: P1, k13 (16), sl1, p26 , sl1, k13 (16), *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Medium/Large Size Only

Decrease Round 14: P1, k2tog, k13, ssk, m1 purl-wise, p26, m1 purl-wise, k2tog, k13, ssk, p1, slip marker, *p1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. 182 stitches

Next Round: P1, k14, sl1, p28, sl1, k14, *p1, knit to 1 stitch before the next marker, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

Both Sizes

29 (28) stitches for each sleeve, 58 (64) stitches for back, 56 (62) stitches for front.  172 (182) total stitches

Collar

Next Round: Purl, placing a removable stitch marker on the first stitch of the round.

Next Round: Knit.

Decrease Round: *K1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, k1, slip marker, repeat from * to end. (8 stitches decreased)

Repeat last two rounds two more times. 148 (158) stitches

Next Round: Knit.

Increase Round: *K1, m1L, knit to 1 stitch before next marker, m1R, k1, slip marker, repeat from * to end. (8 stitches increased)

Next Round: Knit.

Repeat last two rounds. 164 (174) stitches

Repeat Increase Round. 172 (182) stitches

Hem the Collar

*With the right side facing you, use a double pointed needle to pick up the first stitch of the purl round (the marked stitch) 12 rows below. Holding the double point and left needle parallel to each other, knit 1 stitch from the front  (double pointed) needle together with 1 stitch from the back (circular) needle. Repeat from * to end of round.

Finishing Up 

Bind off in stockinette.

Weave in your ends.

Block heavily to even out any tension inconsistencies and to get the beautiful drape of linen.

Comments

[Izabelle]

I love how casual this is. The fact that it's in linen makes it even better! Will definitely give this one a go. Thank you for sharing the pattern!

[kim]

Cute sweater! Curious if the collar and hem *need* tobe rolled for stability or would a k2p2rib or moss stitch be good options?

[Tina Leigh]

Thanks for publishing such a great pattern. I am so appreciative.

[Petra]

I am sure you can read my mind.... I was just browsing around for a summer knit to keep the air condition chill at bay! And to have a nice travel knitting project- and I was thinking about exactly the color you used for the sweater.... by the way, I knit a summer tunic with the Euroflax linen last year, and recommend to simply throw it in the washing machine after it is knit and assembled. And then the drier. This way the linen becomes wonderfully soft, and any knitting un-eveness is gone. It does not shrink or anything.

[Courtney]

Is there any way to make this in an x-tra large size? What do you recommend?? I love it!

[Diana]

This sweater is so cute! I want to make one, and was checking out the sizing as I might need to make an adjustment.

Is there an error in the bust sizes? The hip measurements match up with CO number and gauge, but the chest numbers seem off. You end up with 220 or 240 sts at the bust, which at 6 sts/inch would be 36" or 40", not 33" or 36" as indicated in the finished measurements. Am I missing something?

[purl bee]

Diana... you are absolutely correct. And this totally explains why people keep asking for larger sizes! Thank you so much. What a thorough pattern reader you are! Thank you thank you thank you. --Laura

[purl bee]

Hello All! There was a typo in the chest circumference numbers. The small/medium actually measures at 36 inches while the medium/large measures at 40 inches. I hope these sizes work for everyone! Thank you so much for your kind words about the piece and let me know if you have any other questions! Sorry for any confusion and thanks! --Laura

[purl bee]

Hey Kim. Great question... a 2 x 2 or 1 x 1 rib would work just fine at the collar and cast on edge. This will pull the piece in a pinch, but it would be an alternative to doing a hemmed edge. --Laura

[Sarah]

I might not be reading the pattern properly, but how do you account for attaching the underarm of the body to the sleeve?

[Jessica]

Thanks so much for sharing this pattern!! I love the look of this sweater, just like my favorite sweatshirt but better! I've been too intimidated to try making a sweater, but I think I need to make this!!

[Anna]

Is there anyway to know what the row gauge is for this sweater?? I love the pattern but knowing how many rows per inch would be so helpful.

[purl bee]

Hey Anna, The row gauge is 8 to the inch, blocked. Hope this helps! Thanks. -Laura

[Sally]

A little confused about gauge. Please clarify. At top of pattern, gauge says 6" to the inch. In comments you mention 8 sts to the Inch blocked. I always block my gauge before I start. Does the 6 to the inch, mean unblocked? THanks.

[purl bee]

Hi Sally. I am sorry for any confusion. If you look at my comment above, I am actually just answering a question about the row gauge, not the stitch gauge. Hope this clears things up! Thanks. -Laura

[purl bee]

Hi Sarah... Great question and it hits on what, for me, makes the raglan design so seductive. The arms are attached by knitting across the live stitches. First you knit the sleeves, but leave the stitches live and set them to the side. Then you work on the body of the sweater up to the underarm. Then you knit across the front, knit across the lives stitches of one arm, knit across the back, and finally across the stitches of the second arm... and whala... the arms are attached! -Laura

[Casey]

I was in the store today and saw the sweater. LOVE IT! It will be my next sweater. I've read all the comments...is the hip circumference correct? How is it that it's smaller than the chest circumference? Is it meant to be fitted at the hip and loose around the chest?

[purl bee]

Hi Casey. Glad you like the sweater! The hip circumference is correct. In the front, the bottom edge of the sweater hits just above the hip. The tail in the back of course dips down, but the shaping should allow for a comfortable fit. After the cast on and tail shaping, you increase to the underarm. If your hips and bust are equal in circumference, then you could cast on the same amount as the stitches at the bust and not do the increases to the underarm (and omit the dipping tail at the back). The hip is smaller than the chest circ. It is meant to be fitted like a baseball shirt. Hope this helps. -Laura

[Courtney]

Sorry if you get this twice. I tried posting last night via my ipad but I don't know if it went through.

Laura help! I completed the hem and the short-rows but somehow forgot to add the marker for the increases "k94 place marker".

Now I'm done with the short rows and scared that if count 94 the increase will be in a funky place. What do I do?! Thanks! I love this sweater, minus my stupid mistake.

[purl bee]

Hi Courtney. Oh, I have been there. Fear not! Did you place a marker to indicate the beginning of the round? Or Do you still have your cast on tail hanging down? Can you use the tail to figure out where your first stitch of the round is? If you can locate that stitch... start there and count the 94 stitches and place the marker. You'll be good to go! Hope you enjoy the sweater! Let me know if you have any other questions. -Laura

[Courtney]

I did place one at the beginning... oh good! It just felt like it was in a weird spot, but I trust your knitting genius! I was so scared, but now I'm just super excited.

Thanks for all your great patterns. My sister-in-law lives in NYC and I make her go to Purl Soho for me and bring me stuff when she comes home to Colorado. I love everything you guys do!

[Ingrid]

Hi Laura, been working on this sweater and love how it is turning out. I've just attached the sleeves and started on the raglan decrease but only get a 4 stitch decrease and not 8 as it says on the pattern. I have 4 markers (1 on each side of each sleeve). What am I missing? Thanks

[purl bee]

Hi Ingrid.
Are you SSK-ing before the markers and P2TOG after the markers? I think you might be forgetting one of these two.
Laura

[Ingrid]

Thx Laura. I had to put it down for a couple of days and re-read the instructions and figured it out. Thanks for your help. I really love how it is turning out. I just hope now I can get it done before the weather gets too cold for me to wear it!

[Roxy Miller]

Hi Laura:

I'm making good progress on the 'practise' sweater. I have arriived at 'shaping the V' and am so confused! I have 56 sleeve stitches and 92 front and back. I begin my round at a sleeve. But when I follow Decrease Round 1 instructions I don't come out right on the marker. Also do i just keep on ssk, p1, slip marker, K2tog all the way around? I'm reading "repeat from * to end of round"

I hope you can read my mind enought to help me here! Thanks!

roxy

[Roxy Miller]

Perhaps, In light of my comment yesterday, it would help to see where I am; which you can do on my blog about knitting this sweater. It's on my Facebook page,, http://www.facebook.com/pages/Roxy-Em-Winders-Towers/256491801135888

I got an email from Squaresoace Services but I don't think it's intended as an answer to my questions.

Thanks again,

Roxy

[purl bee]

Hi Roxy.
Thanks for the Facebook link. For that Decrease Round 1, you have caught a huge typo! We have the repeat asterisk in the wrong location. You will actually continue working in a similar fashion as you were in the section above, but now integrating V-shaping. This is how it should read:

Decrease Round 1: P1, k2tog, k36 (39), ssk, p2, k2tog, k36 (39), ssk, p1 *k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round.

I will fix this Decrease Round as well as the following Decrease Rounds now!
Roxy, thank you so much for taking the time to write in about this.
Laura

[Roxy Miller]

Dear Laura:
I’m so glad that I helped you discover a typo on the Decrease Round. I’m much clearer now as to how to proceed. I will continue with the sleeves, and back in the pattern as already established. And use The Decrease Rounds to work the front. I’m still struggling with the fact that the first line of instructions “Decrease Round 1: P1, k2tog, k36 (39), ssk, p2, k2tog, k36 (39), ssk, p1” (in the larger size) only covers 90 stitches whereas I need to cover 92 to get to the marker. It would be an easy fix (do k40 instead of k39) except forfact that the following lines would be harder for me to make any necessary corrections on.
I do hope I’m not wearing out my welcome and I trust this will be my last difficulty. Thanks so much for your responses.
Roxy

[Cinda]

On the sleeves could you tell me what the make 1 left & make 1 right in red means.

[purl bee]

Hi Cinda-

If you click on the make one right and left in red it will take you to a tutorial explaining those increases. Any text in that red/ orange color on this site is a link : )

Thanks so much for your question and please let us know if you need anything else.

Best- Molly

[Kat]

Has anyone successfully sized up this pattern? I was so excited to make it until I saw the final measurements. My bust is around 46" and hips... Well, bigger than that. It looks like such a lovely pattern, but it won't fit me.

[Roxy Miller]

Hi Kat:

I think you can successfully size this pattern up by adding 6 stitches for every additional inch. Make it large enough for your hips and dec down to your bust size. The sleeves can be finished the same way starting large enough for your forearm then inc as the pattern suggests as you go along. The real challenge will come with the neckline. You'll want to be sure it comes up small enough. I haven't completed my sweater to this point yet. But if you want to, check out my blog on http://www.facebook.com/pages/Roxy-Em-Winders-Towers/256491801135888 . I talk about the things I've run into doing this sweater. Maybe it will be of help. Good luck!

[Koni]

I am half way through this project and realized that it's too big...my gauge is 5 stitches to 1" and 8 rows...I am going to rip it out and start again but I would like to know how to many cast on stitches I should remove - any suggestions.

[Roxy Miller]

I'm assuming your guage is 5 stitches for an inch. I think you would have to measure your hips; then multiply the result by 5 in order to come up with the correct number of cast ons. For instance, if your hips are 44 inches, times 5 you would cast on 220 stitches. I imagine you already knew this and did it. If it is still too big, measure the excess and subtract the number of stitches that would bring it down to the measurement you want. Be sure to keep an even number of stitches, though.
Then consider what your bust measurement is. If larger determine the number of increases you will have to add at each side of the body as you knit your rounds.. Or if smaller, determine the number of decreases. And, of course, if it is the same – no increases or decreases. I hope this is helpful.

[purl bee]

Hi Koni,
The pattern was written for a gauge of 6 stitches to the inch. Re-working the pattern for a larger gauge is more than I can answer in a comment box. Is there another yarn you could use so that you could follow the pattern directly?
Laura

[Roxy Miller]

Thank you, Laura! I'm so pleased with the finished Everyday Raglan Sweater. I adjusted the pattern to fit me, and to fit my limited knitting skills but the concept is great. Although it's not perfect, I know I will wear it a lot. Check out the pictures of me, the sweater and the horse at http://www.facebook.com/pages/Roxy-Em-Winders-Towers/256491801135888.

Happy Thanksgiving!

Roxy

[purl bee]

Thanks for sharing Roxy! It looks great!

- Molly

[Madison]

I know you're inundated with sizing questions, but I'm wondering if you'd have any suggestions for an xs version. Thank you so so much for posting such a beautiful pattern! I'm so excited to try this over the holidays!

[purl bee]

Hi Madison,
We have not yet had a chance to write up the pattern for a smaller size. If you are looking to make a smaller version, you could knit it at a tighter gauge, with a thinner yarn. At 6 1/2 stitches to the inch, the chest circumference will measure just under 34 inches. At 7 stitches to the inch, it will measure just under 31 1/2 inches.
I hope this helps.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Laura

[Dana]

I'm just getting started on the pattern & wondering if I could get away with using a 12" #4 circular rather than the dpn's for the sleeves. I'm not sure how the math should work for this - thanks!

[purl bee]

Hi Dana,
Good question. But unfortunately the answer is No. If you are doing the large, you cast on 60 stitches, and at 6 stitches to the inch, that is only a 10-inch circumference, so a 12-inch needle will not work. Once your stitch count is greater than 72, you can switch to 12-inch circulars for sure!
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Laura

[Claudia]

Hi,

I have trouble understanding how to attach the sleeves. Do I need to put them on a second needle first?

Thanks!

[purl bee]

Hi Claudia,
Great question.
Yes, you can put them on a second needle before knitting across.
Let me know if you have any other questions,
Laura

[Gen]

Hey there,
I am ready to knit the sleeves onto the body: I have followed the directions , but end up with a tiny armhole....I have 84 sts in the round for each sleeve...the sleeve fits on my arm, but when I knit it onto the body of the sweater it is so tight...nothing would fit in there...what am I doing wrong?

[kathy]

Aloha!

I'm enjoying working on this project but I've run into a problem..
I'm on the first decrease round of the "shape the V" section and I'm confused that there is not a purl stitch following the slip marker. The pattern says .....ssk, p1, slip marker, repeat from * to end of round. That means the first stitch following slip marker would be a k2? The picture makes it look like it should be p1, slip marker, p1.

Hope you can help, Thanks!
Kathy

[purl bee]

Hi Kathy.
You are absolutely right. Thesee is a two-purl detail at each of the 4 points of raglan shaping.

After ssk, p1, slip marker... you will be starting back at the asterisk, but there should be a "p1" before "K2tog, knit to three stitches before..."

Will correct pattern now.
Thank you so very much for writing in about this!
Laura

[purl bee]

Hi Gen,
I am not sure what is the problem. Is your gauge correct? Is your stitch count for the body correct?
Laura

[Sharon]

I am having the same problem as Gen. When I try to knit around the sleeves it is so tight at the underarm that I can't even continue knitting. I'm missing something, can you help?

[purl bee]

Hi Sharon,


That portion of the pattern does take a bit of finagling, to knit across the armhole stitches. It tends to be a bit tight between the first and last stitch. A few rounds after the arms are knit on, it loosened up for me. Is that not happening for you?

I do want to re-visit this portion of the pattern to make it a more smooth step in the pattern. It is on my to-do list, but I am just not sure when I will get a chance to post modifications.

Thanks for writing in and please let me know if you need any more help!
Laura

[Sharon]

Thanks for the help. Someone mentioned using several circular needles and that did work, so I'm back to knitting!